Rome September 13

Rome

Thursday, September 13                  (3.2 miles total on the pedometer)

We were up at 6:30 a.m. so we could pack, eat some breakfast and meet the bus by 8:15. The bus stopped in the middle of the street and we quickly loaded our luggage and went on our way.

During the drive, Donato handed out street maps of Rome, which is quite a large city, outlining how to use the busses and metro system. I was thrilled that we would be using public transportation.

On our way we stopped at the Tenuta Le Velette winery in Umbria, where we were treated to a wine tasting and lunch.   

The family-owned estate, which sits at the top of a hill surrounded by vineyards, has been producing wine since 1870. 

Our guide Cecilia, who manages the winery, is a no-nonsense, boisterous woman with lots of stories. We sat outside enjoying the scenery, while she told us about the winery's history.

 

She led us on a tour of her family’s wine cellar literally dug out of the clay foundation below the house. There were many alcoves filled with piles of dust-covered bottles of wine. 

Seated in the dining room, our group sampled four wines--two white, one red and a dessert wine--each paired with different dishes that would bring out the best flavors. I had a small sip of each, but was very content with the fruit juice that was also being served. 

 The food was delicious. There were two cold pizzas, one with sliced cucumbers and the other with caramelized onions, a variety of meats and cheeses, hearty bread covered in olive oil and a lemon pastry for dessert.

After lunch, we had a chance to purchase the wine and explore the grounds including the family chapel. Pat and Lou bought four bottles and were given tips on how to pack them safely in their checked luggage.

Before boarding the bus, we took a group photo with the vineyards and a distant town in the background.

During the remaining drive to Rome, Donato decided to “share” the recipe for his famous spaghetti, knowing that everyone would fall asleep halfway through and miss crucial ingredients. He was nice enough to email us the recipe at the end of the trip. At the edge of the city, we passed some “well-dressed” women hanging out on the street, presumably waiting to meet the arriving tourists. Donato told us to stay away from them. He also gave us an interesting grammar lesson: nooks are small spaces in cellars; alcoves are a place where hookers take their men. No wonder Cecelia snapped at us in the wine cellar!

As we drove, it started to rain. It was the first rain of the trip. We had been extremely lucky. Happily, it was just grey and overcast when we arrived at the Hotel Alimandi, just two blocks from the Vatican museum. The hotel was large with two elevators leading to different wings. 

Our average-sized room was one of just two guest rooms on the second floor, which also housed the hotel laundry. There were two single beds, by far the most comfortable of the trip, a wardrobe, desk and a spacious bathroom with a large tub.

 

The air conditioner was mounted high up on the wall and could be adjusted by a remote control. Interestingly, the electricity in the room only worked when the key card was inserted in a slot inside the door.

There were few outlets and I was very please that I had thought to pack an extension cord so we could continue charging all of our electronic devices.

After we got settled, we put on our rain gear and began our orientation/walking tour of the city before dinner. Rome is a bustling place, much like New York City, filled with scary traffic. Unlike Florence, vehicles in Rome do not share the streets with pedestrians. Donato gave us some life saving tips about Italian drivers. He told us to always try to cross at the cross walk. Look the driver in the eye as you start to go, but beware, some drivers will look away meaning they are not planning to stop for you.

We followed the wall around the Vatican and walked to St. Peter’s Basilica, where we boarded a bus to the city center. Donato reminded us to be alert for pickpockets on crowded busses, but we felt pretty safe since most of the passengers were in our group. 

Through the drizzle we walked past the Pantheon, and Largo di Torre Argentina, a roman ruin that is now home to a no-kill cat shelter, affectionately called “Kitty City.”

Our group dined at a restaurant owned by a “classic Italian mother” who brought out platters of antipasti, bowls of different pastas, plates of beef, green beans and homemade potato chips. For dessert we had apple tortes and shots of peach juice.

After dinner, we walked through the Piazza Navona and saw the Fountain of the Four Rivers by Bernini.

We saw the outside of the Pantheon, the building with the hole in the roof. I had not seen it on my earlier trip, 40 years ago, and ran out of time to see the inside during this trip. I guess I will have to come back.

The fountain outside was beautiful, with many great details.

On our way to the bus, Donato told us a story about Bernini’s famous elephant sculpture, called Pulcino della Minerva. The Pope, who commissioned the statue, forced Bernini to modify his design of the elephant. 

To take his revenge, he positioned the statue with the tail end pointing towards the adjacent Dominican Monastery.

Back at the hotel, I sat in the lounge and tried to get on the Internet, but no such luck. My email would have to wait until I got back to the states. I did enjoy the comfortable bed.